Anne
Arran's Climbing |
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Traditional climbs (UK): the
first steps
I started climbing in 1985 aged 17, totally mad for
it and finally allowed to do it after having been inspired
by someone on Idwal slabs in Snowdonia when I was 7.
Knight’s Move VS 4c |
‘excellent
climb, however struggled and fell twice’ |
Long Tall Sally E1 5b |
‘got dragged
up it, couldn’t climb it, Boris got gripped!’ |
Scratch Arete HVS |
‘Led!’ |
Boo Boo |
‘Solo!’ |
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diary extracts 1986 |
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"Cauchemar
de l'Elephant" F8a Buoux
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Since then I have led several E5s including The Cad
E6 6a, Positron E5 6a, Get Some In E5 6a, Right Wall
E5 6a and King Wad E6 6b, sea cliffs being the most
fun.
Sport Climbing
I have climbed extensively around Europe, the US and
Thailand including onsighting 7b+, and have climbed
Cauchemar de l’Elephant (Fr 8a), the second 8a
to be climbed by a British woman.
Competition Climbing
- British Competition Climbing Team 1992-2000
and 1997 British Champion
- Best international performance: 5th UIAA World
Speed Climbing Championship, France
Alpine Climbing
home to the
holdless slab and devious crack
Six Alpine seasons from 1988, including an ascent of
Mont Blanc (4800m), the highest mountain in Western
Europe.
North Face of l’Aiguille de Chardonnay - '16
hours of fun at the limit for me right now - big jump
across crevasse!’
Contamine route, South Face of the Midi, Le Bon Filon
and L’eau Rance d’Arabie. - ‘crack
climbing is hard, must get better at it’
Tofana di Rozes, full day routes in the Dolomites
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British
Bouldering Championships 2002/3
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Expedition Big Wall Climbing
funky
places and interesting people
Kyrgyzstan Ak Su Valley
1999 A land of wild
horsemen, precipitous granite walls and yak
Evading capture by the Taliban we climbed ‘The
Philosopher’s Stone’, E6 6a (1000m).
'We then had to
leave the area as risk of kidnap was becoming too high.
The following year a team of Americans were not so lucky!'
Venezuela 2002, 2003 and 2005 Rumble in the Jungle - a Journey
into the Lost World
Jungle rock climbing, making first free ascents of
big unclimbed walls on ancient tepuis.
‘It's tough
being on a wall for 6 or more days when you have to
carry all your own food, water and sleeping kit, but
really exciting to plan your own way up the cliff and
to step on ground where no one else has stood.’
• Cerro Autana West face, Amazonas (fabled to
be the sacred tree of life!) (700m) 12 days on the wall
• Acopan Tepui, Gran Sabana, ‘Pizza, Chocolata
y Cerveza’ (600m) 6 days on the wall
• Angel Falls, ‘Rainbow Jambaia’ (1000m) 19 days on the wall
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Bouldering
in Egypt
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Exploration
hot
and cold adventures
• New routes in hot and exotic Thailand
• New routing and Eco adventure projects with
the Sinai Bedouin
• Journey into the West Caucuses with a Russian
‘Snow Leopard’
• Climbing and coaching women in the Islamic Republic
of Iran
• Grand Canyon multi-day new routing
• New 5000m peaks in Western Sichuan, China, by technical rock routes
Ice climbing
Ice climbing leading up to grade WI IV in Cogne and
the Argentière basin as well as following X-Files
and Nuit Blanche
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